I used aluminum flashing from a 50 ft. roll between the garage wall and the shed roof. I planned to use crushed gravel under the blocks to help with drainage and leveling. Seal the gap between the roof and back wall with a polyurethane sealant. Remember to check back soon for our article on how to build shed doors. The nail head should sit flat and flush with the shingle when driven in. The nails should be long enough to go 3/4” into the wood of the roof deck too. Use weather-resistant lumber and these free plans to build a long-lasting lean to shed on your property. If I came out 4-feet, the slope would be about 2/12 – the minimum for low slope asphalt shingles. My hope is to run a 2x6 inside the vertical posts on the 3 open sides and trench down about 4 inches so that the 2x6 sticks up about 2 inches. My wife says it’s her garden shed and my stuff is in her way! Step 6 Nail OSB to the roof of the structure. I checked the options for finishing the roof. For my rafter it was (8”x8”) + (48”x48”) = 2368”, find the square root and the span is 48.66” or 48-21/32”+/-. A carport, or lean-to shed, attached to an existing building such as a garage, barn, shed or the side of your house can provide economical shelter for vehicles, garden tractors, boats or other equipment. To better weatherproof the trim and shed, I caulked the trim seams with a good outdoor paintable caulking. Once the frame is together, I checked for square and level, and made sure there was space for airflow between the joists and gravel. thanks for reading and commenting. Re-roofing also requires a building permit. Any greater and even my wife would have to duck going in! Step 1. I also add a hasp and lock to keep it closed so little hands can’t get at something that could harm them. so there is about a 2 inch gap. I checked the level between blocks and between rows. The rafters were attached to front wall top plate with Simpson Hurricane Ties and secured with the Simpson Strong-Drive SD Structural Connector screws or galvanized 1-1/2” and 2-1/2” 8d nails. Lean the walls where they are easy to get, and so they can’t fall and be damaged or injure someone. The location of the back of the birdsmouth that hooks over the top plate of the outer wall is where the mark for the length of the rafter is. The back two corners I trimmed and nailed the same as the side of the front corner. Because the lean too was tight to the existing shed and its roof overhang, I secured the upper piece first. With the walls all framed, it was time to put them all together. I want to use steel posts. The gable ends of the roof were also covered with metal roofing material. Please use your judgment and common sense and go over the list to make sure everything looks good. With the trim primed and caulked, it was time to figure out what kind of paint to use. To finish it off I built a large gate out of cedar fence boards and pressure treated 2X4s. I let it overlap the middle row, so it was flush with the top edge of the OSB and stapled it down. I then attached a few lengths 3X3 angle edging to the end of roof joists to help protect from the weather. I began assembling the walls with the sheathed and protected back wall. Keeping the 12” and corner reference, I gently slide the short arm down until it sits at the bottom edge of the rafter at the desired rise of the roof – 2”s for my roof. I used 8d galvanized nails to attach the trim through the SmartSide and into the studs. I could have done it before building the frame, but making square and level adjustments would have been more difficult. Prime and Paint the Shed Use a paint roller and tray or a paint sprayer to paint your lean-to shed with exterior-grade latex paint. LP SmartSide panels or T1-11 panels? Cut the joists to the intended width of your shed. Mark beams going from left to right – 16-¾, 32-¾, 48-¾… Place an X on the left side of the mark – this is where the joists will be located, at 16-inch centers. Prior to commencement of work, it is recommended you call the Building Division and check for permit requirements. I decided to use LP SmartSide panels which are 3/8-inch 4×8 sheets. time will tell if that is enough. Trim the tabs off enough shingles to do the first row twice. They are used to store outdoor equipment, firewood, lawn mowers etc and can be an extremely cost effective outdoor storage solution. How to build a lean-to is what interests lots of homeowners, who need extra room. Using 2 - 80lb bags of ready mix concrete for footings, I dropped a few shovels full in each hole except for the shallow hole. I looked at the existing 12×14 shed and the space around it. http://wood.d0wnload.link/54bweu How To Build A Lean To Off A Shed tags: Big Green Egg Table Nest How To Keep Green Wood From Cracking Garden Shed With Greenho… The two end clips for the side rafters have one wing cut off – make sure to cut off the left from one clip and the right from another clip. I laid out the garden cloth and covered it with a thin layer of gravel. Step 3 Measure the height at which the lean-to will be attached to the existing building. What an insult to me as a DIYer! This lean to shed plan is made using 4×4 skids. jimmar57, this was an easy to follow instructable. Use the cut-out portion as a door by attaching it to the shed's doorframe with hinges. I then leaned it out of the way against the existing shed. and toe-nail using four 3” 10d galvanized nails. The end walls are a little easier to build on the shed floor! This also identifies where the notch or back of the birdsmouth begins. Instead, I used Hurricane Ties to secure them and to prevent any wind lift, also less chance of splitting the rafter. Thanks for reading and thanks for the advise. Use a circular saw to cut the joists. External Hex Flange Hex-Head Wood Screws which had a rubber washer. An unheated foundation may have to be even deeper to prevent frost heave or risk damage to both structures. You could do all 4 corner blocks first, then the middle blocks. Eleven galvanized steel 3ft X 8ft roofing panels were screwed to the nailers with #10 1-1/2 in. I wanted to make sure there was space for air to flow under the shed floor to help keep moisture down. Use 2x6 lumber for the joists. The frame is made up of 2×4 lumber. You won’t need any special tools. It worked great on the primed trim too. Like the outdoors, canoeing, camping, hunting and fishing. Recently I was doing some research on how to build a Lean To shed and what the best practices are. Ensure you have a workflow plan that details the step-by-step procedure for the construction of your lean-to shed. I use 8d galvanized nails to secure both rake fascia boards into place, and the fascia board to the front of the rafters. I chose 16” centers so the rafters would sit over top of each of the studs, improving the load transfer and increasing the roof support. LP SmartSide panels look like T1-11 panels but are made of OSB based material. Curl the ends down over the end 2×4 studs, and staple to hold. Since a lean to is open on one entire side, it is (in my opinion) cheaper and easier to build than a conventional shed. By applying the principles of a wilderness lean-to structure to a pole barn, you can build one of the simplest outbuildings in any size. I am asking because after a few snow seasons, with all the snow weighing down on the roof edge, the nails could pull out of the 2x6 and 4x4 post and your roof could give way. A bit of middle school math called the Pythagorean Theorem and a calculator, or use a construction calculator, or a free one online rafter calculator, to help determine the length. I’ve built 3 cedar strip canoes and 2 cedar strip kayaks and use all of them. I measure the next piece, cut and slid it into place. To get a usable height, the shed could only be 8-feet long. With that I need to figure out what the pitch of the roof would be, still fitting about a foot lower than the eaves on the garage and using only 8 ft. 2X4s for the roof joists. The length of the rafter from the front edge of the back wall double plate to the front edge of the double plate of the front wall I calculated using the total rise and the total run it traverses. I didn't seal it, haven't had any problems. This exposed the wood to rain and snow and was sometimes a bothersome chore to carry it, drag it, cart it that distance into the house. 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